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Luz, the light of Toy country
To characterize Luz* in 1843, Victor Hugo wrote: "charming old town, delightfully situated in a deep triangular valley," where "three great rays of daylight enter it through the three embrasures of the three mountains."
*Luz became "Luz-Saint-Sauveur" in 1962 ("Lus e Sent Sauvaire" in Occitan).
In its valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées, situated at an altitude of over 700 m, Luz quickly became a landmark for "miquelets" and other "Spanish smugglers" arriving from Aragon.
Hugo completes:
"[...] they would suddenly see at the end of the dark gorge a great brightness, as is the door of a cellar to those inside. They hurried on and found a large town, sunlit and alive. This burg, they named Lumière, Luz."
"This burg, they named Lumière, Luz."
Hugo - Œuvres Complètes, Impr. Nat., En Voyage, tome II
Like the Capital, then, we could almost call this city ... "Luz, Ville Lumière"? Luz, Ville Lumière"?! This charming village is located between the Pyrenean mountains, just a few minutes south of Lourdes. Close to Tarbes and the Spanish border, it has carved out a place for itself as a good ambassador - while retaining its picturesque character - for the towns of Toy country.
...Toy* country as a setting
The Pays Toy, one of the seven valleys of the Lavedan, today comprises fifteen communes (Gavarnie-Gèdre, Luz, Viscos ...). The beating heart of the Hautes-Pyrénées, it's a lively, mountainous territory, distinguished by numerous natural points of interest.
So, if you're planning a stay in Occitanie, and wondering "what to do in Luz and the surrounding area? ", we recommend that you discover :
- le pic de Viscos ("la Canine") and its belvedere,
- le gave (river) du Bastan,
- the Tourmalet
- the pic du Midi de Bigorre
- the cirque de Gavarnie
- the réserve naturelle du Néouvielle (or "little Canada")
- the lac de Bastampe
Giving enthusiasts the chance to rub shoulders with the very best of the mountains, Luz lies at the crossroads of several valleys:
- the valley of Luz,
- the valley of Barèges,
- the valley of Gavarnie.
City of Napoleon
The treasure
Did you know? Long told as a fireside anecdote, the legend of the emperor's treasure has nonetheless emerged from the imagination, and made its place in history. Indeed, the town council has undertaken renovation work, after buying back the residence from the Poque family (who hosted numerous personalities on holiday in the region, including Napoleon, and a cabinet meeting in his day). After unearthing a box, workmen discovered a hefty haul estimated at several thousand euros: pieces of Italian, French and Vatican origin. All in good condition!
The Poque treasure shed light on many fantasies, but also perpetuates certain questions ... Do all these European coins reflect Napoleon's comings and goings? Is this an abandoned, forgotten family treasure ...?
Maybe you could find others in the region yourself! The only way to try is to spend a few days in Luz-Saint-Sauveur!
The walk
Spanning 3 km, the Napoléon III and Eugénie walk can be completed in 1 hour or more, depending on individual pace and breaks. Accessible to all, this circuit highlights the buildings for which the emperor was responsible -directly or indirectly.
Half urban, half country, it allows you to discover:
- the quartier thermal de Saint-Sauveur: since 1975, the thermal baths have been listed as Historic Monuments and recognized for their naturally 33°C water, rich in rare gases, mineral salts and sulfur,
- the pont Napoléon, built between 1859 and 1863, it spans the Gave de Gavarnie. The emperor thought an arch over the ravine (70 m deep) would be a "picturesque effect".
The aim: to open up Saint-Sauveur and provide a carriageway to the cirque de Gavarnie (a popular but perilous excursion at the time),
- the little chapelle Solférino (named after the French victory over the Austrians in 1869) and its Byzantine tower. Above the door, two initials: "N" (Napoleon), "E" (Eugénie),
- the lavoir,
- the église Saint-André "des Templiers",
- the maison Gradet-Poque, whose salon hosted Napoleon III's meetings on major works. Today Luz-Saint-Sauveur town hall.
Entertainment in Luz
Tour de France 2019
The famous cycling race regularly passes through Toy country to make the long ascent of the Tourmalet or access the Luz-Ardiden ski resort.
On July 20, 2019, for stage n°14, it's precisely the ascent of the famous col that awaits the riders, for a finish after 117 km of racing.
"The 2,000-meter mark will require the riders to project themselves into a new dimension. They will cross it shortly before reaching the Col du Tourmalet, at a stage when the battle of the best climbers should be underway. In a very dense format, the stage will require them to cross the Col du Soulor beforehand."
Christian Prudhomme, director of the Tour de France.
Jazz à Luz
Recognized by lovers of good music, Jazz à Luz swings between official concerts, and alternative programming in the village bars.
For years, it has welcomed well-known figures and also offers artistic walks, cultural actions, debates and conferences ... | Coup de ❤
Le Festival de Gavarnie
"The mission of the Festival de Gavarnie is to make people discover or rediscover, through live performance, the great works of literature or the great myths" (source: DP).
Directed and presented by the Théâtre Fébus and Bruno Spiesser.
Année Napoléon- Celebrating 160 years since the arrival of Napoléon III and Eugénie
For one afternoon (17/08/2019), you can take part in a stroll (on foot or in a horse-drawn carriage) following the imperial couple and their court through the streets of Luz, before finishing with a country-style snack and a few dance steps!
Gastronomy
Toy country is a land renowned for its traditional specialties. After long excursions to the Pyrenean heights, or during musical or cultural events, there's nothing like sampling the local cuisine with family and friends!
Here are a few gourmet ideas:
- the confits of goose, or duck, accompanied by ceps or Tarbais beans,
- the cochon noir de Bigorre, used in particular to make the famous boudin, jambon noir or chestnut tournedos,
- the garbure, a thick vegetable soup, with potatoes, turnips, onions, carrots, cabbage ... in which a confit has been cooked,
- the pastet of Toy country, a "poor man's dish" in the Pyrenees,
- the truses, small cakes made from corn or buckwheat flour, sugar, butter and water,
- the mesturet. This dessert comes in the form of cakes, galettes or fritters. Made from pumpkin, it can be eaten hot or cold! The little extra: accompany mesturet with vanilla ice cream! A dé-li-ce,
- le gâteau à la broche or rocher des Pyrénées, slow-cooked on a spit over a wood fire, it's sometimes flavored with rum or vanilla, and walnuts, and raisins are added. You'll find them at the Lourdes market.
To find out more ...
- Lourdes, located at the gateway to the Gaves valley, is known as a mecca of spirituality. Every year, this benevolent destination welcomes millions of travelers from every continent to meditate and contemplate the grotto of Massabielle, or the Virgin Mary,
- the Réserve Internationale de Ciel Etoilé, a 3000 km² territory dedicated to the protection and quality of the night in the Hautes-Pyrénées. The "RICE" is based on the route of already existing protected natural areas (Parc National des Pyrénées, Réserve Naturelle du Néouvielle, Réserve Régionale d'Aulon),
- travelling some 200 km towards Spain, you can enjoy migas or a ternasco in Zaragoza, or even admire Huesca's parque Miguel Servet!
- Let's not forget, the numerous hikes to be had in the region! Pic du Bergeons, pic de Tentes, brèche de Roland, refuge de la Glère ... They will all take you to discover the natural and heritage treasures hidden in the Toy country!
Don't forget to consult this memento before any mountain outing?.
As well as being a historically rich site full of breathtaking natural panoramas, Luz-Saint-Sauveur is today a village where life is good all year round. Its population is authentic, full of know-how and in love with its many traditions, which it strives to preserve (pastoralism, wool spinning, Occitan gastronomy and culture...).
Luz multiplies its charming assets: staying here will enable everyone to find themselves and recharge their batteries in a raw and bucolic environment, summer and winter alike.
